Ever heard of a cushaw? Read on to find out more about this squash and how to use it to make a delicious pie.
1. Introduction
Okay, I'm thinking there are those out there are scratching their heads and saying, "what in the world is a cushaw?" The cushaw, a large winter crookneck squash with a distinctive green stripe and pale yellow flesh, was often used at our home instead of pumpkin. It has a mild, somewhat sweet flavor, and can be used like most any squash. Though people have used it for hundreds of years, it doesn’t seem to have reached the popularity of its round, orange cousin, the pumpkin. Other names for it are Tennessee sweet potato and striped gourd squash. When I was growing up, the appearance of cushaw pies on my mom’s countertops usually meant it was time for one of two annual events: family reunion in the spring or Thanksgiving.
In the U.S., it’s harvested in the late summer and normally grown in the south, which is probably why it’s considered a southern, or in our case, an Appalachian food. I don’t think I’ve ever found one in a supermarket, but they turn up in farmer’s markets and backyard gardens. The cushaw is also a good “keeper.” You can often store them for several weeks or even a few months with proper care. We try to select the ones that have a big “neck” area.
I have heard the cushaw referred to simply as a “gourd.” I remember from my youth seeing that someone had hung out a few as bespoke birdhouses. I’ve never seen anyone using one as a jack-o-lantern at Halloween, but I have seen cushaws used in decorative fall arrangements on front porches and lawns, resting against corn fodder shocks, hay, pumpkin and other autumn regulars.
Though pumpkin and cushaw can be interchangeable in many recipes, our style of cushaw pie is not like your classic custard-like pumpkin pie. Ours are made rather flat, like a tart, and the spiced filling is prepared without milk, unlike traditional pumpkin pies. Finally, we top our pies with a sweet meringue, baked to a light, golden brown.
In our home, we use cushaw not only in pies, but also in loaves of sweet, moist, cinnamon and walnut-laden snacking bread. I have also tried warm cushaw puree as a savory side, with butter, salt and pepper, similar to southern-style grits. But cushaw pies were and still are tops with my family. If you try one, you may soon feel the same.
2. Preparing the cushaw
Wash the outside of the squash carefully before peeling, to reduce the chance of contamination.
Cut open cushaw and remove seeds and inner membrane. Peel rind away (it will be a bit labor-intensive!) and cut flesh into cubes. Place cubes into large cookpot and cover with water. Heat until boiling, then reduce heat, cover and cook down, using a potato masher to stir/mash often until cushaw is smooth like a puree.
3. Cushaw pie recipe
Here’s how they’re made. The recipe is pretty forgiving, as far as spices and sweetness. Make your own crust or use a prepared one from the dairy or frozen case at your favorite grocery store.
(Yield: three 9-inch pies, possibly more):
Note: this is a home-developed recipe. Adjust to taste.
INGREDIENTS:
2 quarts cushaw puree
6 egg yolks (reserve whites in a different bowl and set aside)
3 cups granulated sugar
3 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves (optional)
3 nine-inch pie crusts
Filling---
Place puree in 4-quart saucepan. Stir in egg yolks, sugar and spices and turn burner on medium heat. Heat for about 15 minutes, or until eggs are completely cooked and filling is no longer runny, stirring frequently. Allow to cool to room temperature.
Meringue---
Pour 6 egg whites into large mixing bowl. Beat with mixer until stiff peaks form. Add about 1/2 cup of sugar, and beat again until you have peaks.
Cooking Directions ---
Preheat oven to 350F. Pre-bake raw pie crust for 5 minutes. Spoon filling into crust and bake for about 10 minutes. Remove pie from oven, top with meringue and return to oven for about another 8-10 minutes to brown the meringue. Oven times may vary, so watch each stage of baking carefully.
4. Conclusion
Well, there you go, you have just prepared a delicious cushaw pie. If you followed the instructions properly, your pie should look something like you see here. I'd like to thank my wife for her contribution of most of this post. We hope you enjoyed this article and that it was of use to you. Thanks for reading along.